The Icons - The Crombie Coat

This may sound counter-intuitive and contradict everything you’ll ever read in any of today’s menswear magazines, but what I look for when I’m shopping is something trend-proof. 

Take this overcoat for example, which I’ve had for years. Every winter when I get the chance to break it out, the last thing I need to ask myself is whether it’s in or out this season. Its timelessness is a fact. Sure, men’s fashion tends to change at a much slower pace than womenswear, but the reason topcoats like this are so enduring is not only because they’re classically designed pieces, but also — and this is key — because they’re so incredibly versatile. 

I first came across this style — a cross between a Crombie and a Covert — when I saw John Steed in the British TV series The Avengers wearing one. I wasn’t even old enough to buy my own clothes, but I knew even then that I wanted my own version. Usually made of wool in dark blue, the name itself originates from John Crombie whose Aberdeen-based textile factory began making its distinctive wool back in 1805. 

The overcoat category is full of nuance. There’s the Covert, with its signature seams around the hem and cuffs known as railroading. It originated as equestrian and hunting attire. Then there’s the Chesterfield, named after the Earl of Chesterfield, which looks like a combination between the Crombie and the Covert. It’s long in length, made of a woolen fabric and the classic single-breasted version features a gray herringbone. As with the Covert, it can come with a contrast collar, usually black velvet. 

Over the years, these distinctive styles have developed a kind of dual identity — worn by members of the establishment, including Winston Churchill, Barack Obama, King Charles III, as well as members of what some might call the anti-establishment, including skinheads, rude boys and gangsters. It doesn’t get more versatile than that.

Of course, this wasn’t always the case. There was a time when the Crombie was almost the exclusive domain of the landed gentry and later businessmen, part of the uniform of the elite class. What I’ve long enjoyed is watching how this particular style is worn by characters on screen and how it’s used to amplify their story or their mindset. The Crombie’s on-screen patrons are varied, from Daniel Craig as James Bond and Cillian Murphy as Tom Shelby in Peaky Blinders _to Jason Statham in _Snatch. It’s a piece that never fails to make its presence felt; no matter who wears it, they always seem to imbue a certain confidence and style.

I love clothes, but I also don’t take them so seriously that I can’t actually enjoy wearing them. Maybe that’s why I like mixing formal pieces, like a great quality overcoat, with more informal pieces. I find that wearing dark jeans and a sweatshirt with a tie and loafers is a great way to dress for a special occasion — a date, a meal with friends, for example — without feeling too stuffy or formal.

I always gravitate towards a Crombie for formal events, over a suit or sports coat and tie, but it’s also a style that works well in creating more casual looks. Ultimately, what I love about it is that it allows me to easily combine my ideas of elegance and playfulness year after year. The Crombie can handle such versatility.

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